AHA/ BHA Series Part 1

AHA and BHA : Such fancy terms but play a crucial role in facial care. Known to brighten skin and reduce acne. These ingredients help in collagen production, exfoliate top layer of the skin, thereby removing dead skin cells. However the usage rate is limited for regular use/DIY without a dermatologist suggestion (ex:chemical peels). The higher the concentration, the powerful it is and is irritating.

AHA: Alpha Hydroxy Acid - These are water-soluble acids which exfoliate the top skin cells, promote cell turnover, improve skin texture: Few widely used ones are: Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, Mandelic acid and Malic acid. These can be found in natural sources like Sugarcane (Glycolic acid), MIlk/Curd (Lactic acid), Bitter Almonds (Mandelic acid), however it is in lower concentration.

AHA's are often added in creams, cleansers (facewash/ body wash), serums, chemical peels (has higher concentration, so better to be careful if making own)

BHA: Beta Hydroxy Acid - These are oil-soluble acids which penetrate into skin, unclog pores and reduce acne/blackheads. It is a savior for ACne prone oily skin. BHA's smooth skin texture and , reduces the appearance of wrinkles and pores. These can be found in willow bark and winter green leaves.

BHA's are added in serum, facewash and body wash. Higher concentration(more than 2%) need clinical testing.

It can be used in combination with AHA`s, Hyaluronic acid and Niacinamide.

Usage suggestion: Sunscreen is must when using AHA/BHA in your skincare routine. Always do patch test and start with lower concentration.

Let's look more into each if these for formulation (Values here are provided by vendor)

Lactic acid:

It is suitable for most skin types. Lactic acid is also used to reduce pH of a formulation, similar to citric acid.

It is available as liquid in various concentrations like 80% or 90%

pH should be above 3.5 and below 4.5 to be effective as skin brightening ingredient.

Usage rate: 1-5%

Goes well with Salicylic acid and Hyaluronic acid. Often formulated as serum.

Can be added in cool down phase. It is soluble in water.

Glycolic acid:

It is a powerful AHA, it exfoliates deeply. It is also available in different concentrations like 70% or 75%

pH should be between 3.5- 5.

Usage rate: 1-20%, Higher the usage rate, intense would be peeling. It is suggested to not use more than 10% with DIY.

Stimulates collagen production, prevents saggy skin. Restores youthfulness and plumpness.

It can be combined with Hyaluronic acid, Salicylic acid, DL Panthenol,

Can be added in cool down phase. It is soluble in water.

Mandelic acid:

It is a gentle exfoliant, suitable for sensitive skin. It is available in powder form.

Helps in reducing hyper pigmentation, dark spots, sun damage. It works great for acne prone skin, helps control acne-causing bacteria.

pH should be between 3.5-4.5

Usage rate: 5-10%

It is added in serums, toners, peels and creams.

Can be combined with Hyaluronic acid, DL Panthenol and other AHA's

Can be added in cool down phase. It is soluble in water.

Salicylic acid:

It is a powerful ingredient for acne prone skin. It fights acne and controls acne causing bacteria. It also works reduce dandruff, thereby improving health od hair.

It is used in serums, toners, deodorants, shampoos, conditioners and creams.

pH suggested is 3.5-4. It can be dissolved in Propylene glycol, Propanediol and Castor oil at 1:5/10 ratio.

It can be added in heated phase or cool down phase.

Salicylic acid goes well with Niacinamide, Hyaluronic acid, Vitamin C and AHA's

Usage rate: 0.5-2%

Can be added in cool down phase or heated phse. It can be heated in solvents to dissolve faster.

Do let me know which one is your favorite.

I will share my formulations with AHA/ BHA in upcoming blogs and videos. You can check my Youtube channel for formulation/licensing/pH related videos. Follow me on Instagram for BTS, Quizzes and Polls.